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Corrosion Prevention

Corrosion is the biggest problem in any system that uses water and metal together. There is a chemical reaction that occurs between the water and metal that is really unstoppable, however there is a way of slowing the corrosion and rotting down.The Anode:The anode is a rod shaped item that is made from elements such as magnesium and zinc that have a lesser resistance to the corrosive action that exists in a plumbing system. This means that it will start to corrode and rot away far quicker than the cylinder walls, which is a good thing as a rotten water storage cylinder has the potential to do some major damage should its integrity fail.Position:The anode usually sits in the top of the cylinder passively and is secured with one large nut and sealing washer. Because the anode is rotting, the tank damage will be greatly reduced. Its actual condition cannot be seen from the outside of the cylinder. Therefore it must be isolated and drained. Removal and Replacement:Anodes come in many shapes and sizes, so you must have the details of your whole system to ensure that you get the buy one. The information should be on a tag screwed to the heater. The anode is quite easy to replace. Isolate the power and the cold-water feed. Unscre the hexagonal bolt holding the rod.Take out the anode rod and replace with a new one. A Clerkenwell Plumber can fit an anode. Fitting should be done in reverse. Use Teflon tape on the thread of the fitting to stop leaks. Lastly:Restore water and power to the water heater and turn on.TIP:Twice a year you should visually inspect the anodes condition, as this is a good guide to replacement. Clerkenwell Plumbers know about anodes.

Controlling The Heating

Many different devices that can control the domestic central heating system. These are becoming more and more precise and accurate, with control now available from your smart phone. The ideal scenario is to make a system very economical and increase its efficiency as fuel bills rise. Clerkenwell Plumbers fit heating control devices. Types:Cylinder Thermostats:The temperature of the water that heats a radiator is far higher than the water coming from the taps with the first at 82 degrees C and the second at 60 degrees C so the cylinder thermostat prevents overheating of the hot water supply. The thermostat operates by stopping the flow to its heat exchanger when the temperature raises and allow the flow as the temperature lowers.Control For Zones:The Zone control system operates, having two components, the first being a zone control driven by an electric motor. This will stop the water flowing to the zone under control. The second is a controller that will regulate the valve. The Zone controller can make adjustments, either by time or temperature or indeed both, being wirelessly operated in some cases, although the control valve requires an electrical feed and is positioned in the areas heating pipes.Thermostat:Manual or digital operation is available for a thermostat. The device is programmed to turn the heating system both on and off when a temperature is achieved. Mainly fitted in a lounge or a hallway. (T)hermostatic (R)adiator (V)alves:These types of valves are connected to one of the lower corners of a radiator and control the flow of water through its radiator by the heat. They are adjustable and are good for maintaining the desired heat output from a radiator. A Clerkenwell Plumber can fit TRVs.Hive:The newest form of heating control just introduced by a major energy supplier. This system allows you to control your heating from anywhere at all via an application on your phone or tablet. A wireless system that is very efficient. This means you can put your heating on whilst you are on the bus home.

Shower Cubicle

If you would like to install a separate shower unit there are several design considerations to make regarding its location and construction. You can always ask an expert such as Clerkenwell Plumbers .Shower unit.A complete shower can be purchased which includes all the necessary components. The shower, shower tray and walls of the cubicle are all pre-made and require only assembly and installation. Shower cubicle.Or build you own. This method is more labour intensive but can represent a considerable cost saving. The shower may be built against one wall and stud walls constructed on one or two of the sides or The shower use the corner walls of the room. Shower unit plumbing.Consideration should be given to the plumbing. It always looks far neater if all the pipework is hidden. This can be achieved either by routing the pipes through the rear wall of the shower if this is possible, or by building a false wall in front of the pipework. A Clerkenwell Plumber can build this structure.Shower unit drainage and waste.The tray can be a little tricky for draining the water as there is a need for a fall or a slight slope in the waste pipe. If the joists supporting the floor run in the same direction as the waste pipe, there may be room to fit the waste within the floor depth. If not, raise the base of the shower to provide the necessary slope of 6mm per 300mm of waste pipe. Some of the “top of the range” shower trays come with an adjustable base height.Shower cubicle walls.Stud walls should be made of marine grade plywood since the area will be very wet. This is screwed and glued to a frame of suitably spaced and strengthened timber studwork. Remember to seal all the angles between walls and the edges of the shower tray with mastic, so that there is no possibility of water percolating through. The false wall referred to earlier is built on the same principles. It will accommodate the pipework between the timber uprights and also provide support for fixing the shower controls and adjustable rail for the shower head. The surface of these walls should be sealed and may then be clad with ceramic tiles using a waterproof adhesive.

Plumbing Tools

Adjustable Spanner.A spanner with a screw operated lower jaw. In use you open up the jaws, slide the spanner over the nut and tighten for a good firm fit. An adjustable is a handy tool available in many sizes. Used by professionals like Clerkenwell Plumbers .Basin Wrench.A long handled wrench specifically designed for use when fitting taps. The jaw of the wrench is flipped over into tighten or untighten mode and then is operated with a pivoting movement.Chain Wrench.A tool with a handle a toothed jaw and a chain used to grip pipes and large nuts. The chain is wrapped over the item to be turned, engage the chain with the toothed jaw and lever with the handle so it grips. It is a very useful tool for working on, old pipework, large nuts and threaded galvanized pipes.Pliers.A good pair of pliers are very useful. Long nosed for electrics and large for heavy work such as soldering and WC valves and others for lots of hard to do tasks.Spirit Level.A tool to check that fittings and fixtures are level and true . Available in lots of sizes and types. Most common used are small wooden bodied with the level set in the middle. Great tool and carried by a Clerkenwell Plumber .Wood Chisels.You need a set of chisels for chopping and cutting wood for setting pipework in joists and cutting holes in plasterboard. Used with a hammer, goggles and mask.Measuring Tools.You will need to own two measuring tools, a wood, metal or plastic rule for sizing and marking holes. A flexible tape measure for longer measuring jobs like position of taps, radiators and lengths of pipework.Hammers.Three hammers are used, a claw hammer for general work knocking in nails and clawing out old. A small tack hammer for pins and very small nails and large headed clump hammer for lifting floorboards and chopping holes in plaster and brickwork. An essential tool.

Make a Toilet Handle more Snug

The handle on a toilet is subject to lots of use in an average week, making them very liable to to loosening. Loose handles not only cause poor flushing performance and everyday annoyance but can cause the handle to fail and require replacement. You can make your toilet handle more snug by performing a simple adjustment. Professional services like Clerkenwell Plumbers can carry our remedial maintenance.1). Isolate the toilet water supply by turning the shut-off valve handle clockwise. The supply pipe and handle are located behind the toilet.2). Shut the toilet seat and remove the tank cover by grabbing and pulling it upwards. Place the cover on a flat, stable surface to guard against accidental cracking or breakage.3). Make sure that the tank is empty. This is achieved by operating the flush so the tank empties. 4). Locate the metal nut directly behind the toilet handle within the tank. The threaded lever shaft is reverse-threaded (the opposite of standard screws and other threaded devices) and employs a plastic washer held in place by the nut. Reverse threads are used to prevent loosening over time since the lever operates in the same clockwise direction of standard threads. A Clerkenwell Plumber is qualified for all jobs.5).Tighten the nut with an adjustable wrench by turning counter-clockwise until snug. Avoid over-tightening to prevent accidental cracking of the toilet tank.6).Test the toilet handle for snugness by pressing downward. If it is too tight, loosen the nut slightly by turning clockwise with the wrench and test again.7). Reinstate the water supply. Allow the tank to fill, double-check for operation again by flushing and replace toilet tank cover. Also make a visual inspection of all the work you have carried out and check for any leaks.

Water Pressure and Flow explained

Water Flow.Water flow measures how much water is delivered over a set period of time. For example if a 10 litre bucket under a tap takes 10 seconds to fill then the flow rate is 1 litre per second. Water Pressure.An example of pressure concerns a cold water storage cistern that is used to supply water to a basin in a bathroom upstairs and a basin in a downstairs cloakroom. You will notice that the pressure at the downstairs tap is considerably more than that at the one upstairs. The increased pressure is due to the height of the cistern in relation to the tap. Take a hose with an adjustable nozzle. With the nozzle open slightly, there will be a high pressure jet of water but the amount of water coming out. Open the nozzle fully and the pressure will be far less but the amount of water coming out (the flow rate) will be far greater. There are devices available to measure water pressure and water flow. You may see a professional plumber from Clerkenwell Plumbers using these. Where a new plumbing installation is being designed, measurements of both the incoming mains water pressure and flow may be needed to help with the design and specification process.Mains Water Pressure Gauge.Using a mains water pressure gauge, the pressure at an outlet can be measured. This device has a threaded connection to fit the outlet and will measure the water pressure in bar.Water Flow Weir Cup.A boiler installer like a Clerkenwell Plumber may need to check there is a sufficient flow rate for installing a combi boiler. There is something called a weir cup that professionals use for accurate flow readings. It reads both litres per second and gallons per minute. If a flow rate needs to be reduced, a weir cup may be used to measure and then accurately adjust the flow rate to meet the operating flow rate required to suit an appliance manufacturers specification.

Install a Pop up drain

Put a basin under the trap to catch water. Loosen the nuts at the outlet and inlet of the U-bend by hand or wrench and remove it. The trap will slide off the pop-up body tailpiece when the nuts are loose. Keep track of washers and nuts and their orientation by leaving them on the tubes. Unscrew the cap holding the ball-and-pivot rod in the pop-up body and withdraw the ball. Compress the spring clip on the clevis and withdraw the pivot rod from the clevis. A professional like Clerkenwell Plumbers can provide expert help.Remove the pop-up stopper. Then, from below, remove the lock nut on the stopper body. Thrust the stopper body up through the hole to free the flange from the basin, and then remove the flange and the stopper body. Thread the locknut all the way down the new pop-up body, followed by the flat washer and the rubber gasket (beveled side up). Wrap Teflon tape clockwise onto the top of the threaded body. Seal the flange with plumbers putty and place underneath the drain flange. From below, face the pivot rod opening directly back toward the middle of the sink and pull the body straight down to seat the flange. Thread the locknut/washer assembly up and fully tighten the locknut with a suitable wrench. Do not twist the flange so as not to break the putty seal, a Clerkenwell Plumber has the skills and equipment to complete the job. Drop the pop-up stopper into the drain hole so the hole at the bottom of its post is closest to the back of the sink. Put the beveled nylon washer into the opening in the back of the pop-up body with the bevel facing back. Put the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod as shown. Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the spring clip and thread the long end of the pivot rod through the clip and clevis. Put the ball end of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening and into the hole in the stopper stem. Screw the cap on to the pop-up body over the ball. Put the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod as shown. Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the spring clip and thread the long end of the pivot rod through the clip and clevis. Put the ball end of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening and into the hole in the stopper stem. Screw the cap on to the pop-up body over the ball.

Handy Plumbing Tips

Tips.

When it comes to plumbing, there are certain preventive measures that can help you avoid unnecessary plumbing nightmares. From cutting down on how much water you use each day, to ensuring taps and pipework are in good shape to conserving water and reducing bills it’s easier than you might think. If unsure seek a professional like Clerkenwell Plumbers.

Turn off .

A dripping tap is more than just an annoying sound; it can waste up to 15 gallons of water per day and add approximately 70 to your yearly water bill. To avoid wasting precious water, make sure you turn your taps off all the way. Invest in plumbing maintenance now.

Hidden leaks.

You cannot see every water leak with the naked eye. Some are cunningly hidden and require some detective work on the part of the homeowner to be found. To determine if your home has any hidden leaks, check your water meter before and after a specific period of time when no water has been used. If the meter has changed, there may be a leak lurking somewhere in your home. A Clerkenwell Plumbers can do this.

Don’t neglect your drains.

Keep your drains in good order and stop unwanted grime and limescale build-up. Baking soda used in various places can help. Also the use of vinegar is the same. Putting them down strainers in the sink and bath tub drain helps to stop soap blockages etc. Best done on a monthly basis. Harsh chemical drain cleaners are harmful to the environment and can damage your pipes.

Keep fats and oil out of your drains.

When grease is poured down a drain, it cools, becomes a solid mass and clogs up the insides of your pipes. Over time, it will build up and block the entire pipe. Rather than dumping grease into your plumbing system, pour it in a heat-resistant container, let it solidify and then throw it in the garbage.

Area Coverage:

(-EC1, -EC1A, -EC1M, -EC1N, -EC1P, -EC1R, -EC1V, -EC1Y, -EC2A, -EC2M, -EC2N, -EC2P, -EC2R, -EC2V, -EC2Y, -EC2, -EC3, -EC3A, -EC3M, -EC3N, -EC3P, -EC3R, -EC3V, -EC4A, -EC4M, -EC4N, -EC4P, -EC4R, -EC4V, -EC4Y, -EC4 -WC1, -WC1A, -WC1B, -WC1E, -WC1H, -WC1N, -WC1R, -WC1V, -WC1X, -WC2, -WC2A, -WC2B, -WC2E, -WC2H, -WC2N, -WC2R, -W1, -W1A, -W1B, -W1C, -W1D, -W1F, -W1G, -W1H, -W1J, -W1K, -W1S, -W1T, -W1U, -W1W, -SW1, -SW1A, -SW1E, -SW1H, -SW1P, -SW1V, -SW1W, -SW1X, -SW1Y): Shoreditch, Moorgate, Belgravia, St Paul's Cray, Bloomsbury, Soho, Clerkenwell, Gray's Inn, West End, Barbican, Holborn, Monument, Tower Hill, St. Paul's, Covent Garden, Farringdon, Hatton Garden, Finsbury, Finsbury Estate, St Luke's, Bunhill Fields, Broadgate, Liverpool Street, Guildhall, St Mary Axe, Aldgate, City of London, Leadenhall, Lloyd's of London, Fenchurch Street, Tower of London, Billingsgate, Royal Exchange, Lombard Street, Fetter Lane, St Paul's, Mansion House, Cannon Street, Blackfriars, Temple, New Oxford Street, British Museum, University College London, St Pancras, Russell Square, High Holborn, Kings Cross, Camden, Westminster, Lincoln's Inn Fields, Royal Courts of Justice, Drury Lane, Aldwych, Leicester Square, Charing Cross, Somerset House, Portland Street, Regent Street, Chinatown, Soho Square, Harley Street, Marylebone, Mayfair, Piccadilly, Royal Academy, Grosvenor Square, Hanover Square, Savile Row, Fitzrovia, Tottenham Court Road, Great Portland Street, Whitehall, Buckingham Palace, Buckingham Gate, Victoria Station, Vauxhall Bridge, Chelsea Bridge, Sloane Square, Kings Road, Eaton Square, Knightsbridge, St. James's,